beets, potatoes, and the joys of seasonal eating

I've eaten a lot of beets during this first month on the farm. Roasted beets with rosemary. Shredded beet salad. Sushi rolls with beets and avacado. I had never dared imagine so many culinary permutations.

We rotate cooking in pairs for the 50-odd people involved in the program. Staples like rice, butter, and cooking oil are bought in bulk, but the majority of our produce comes directly from the farm. In April and May, that means lots of beets. A smattering of parsnips and kiwis which have also been stored through the winter. A handful of early season greens. And many, many beets.

Only in this context does the following description of group euphoria make sense. While preparing a bed for planting a few weeks ago, several apprentices chanced upon a large number of "volunteer" purple potatoes--holdovers from the previous season that had gone about proliferating. The discovery was promptly harvested, washed, and delivered to Ben and Dan, our cooks on duty. The garlic potato dish they conjured up was received with rapturous applause, and it was generally agreed that potatoes had never tasted quite so good.

As the growing season progresses, there is a wonderful and growing air of anticipation. I watch as apple blossoms fade and the fruits begin to swell, reminding me that cider and apple pie is not far off. Fava beans and spinach and arugala have made themselves available--now delighting us with their novelty and soon to challenge our creativity in preparing them in new and pleasing ways. The strawberries we graze on during our work breaks are all the more delicious because we know that in a few months they will have passed us by.

Even in this short period of time, I've found that eating more seasonally and locally heightens my interest in and understanding of both the food I'm eating and the environment that fosters it. It helps me appreciate resources that are here today and gone tomorrow. The tendency of our contemporary food system is to offer the consumer whatever he wants whenever he wants it. And while I enjoy freshly-made guacamole in December as much as anyone, I do think that we sacrifice something for this convenience. I've already written about fuel costs associated with transporting non-local and out of season crops, but I think we also lose a sense of connectedness and an appreciation of place and local cuisine. Eating seasonal, locally grown food teaches us something about where we live and may prompt us to think more deeply about climate, topography, soil, local ecosystems, and other factors. And rather than being an end in itself, this increased awareness of place can ultimately lead to more sustainable personal and public policy decisions. These are benefits for which I am willing to eat more beets than I'd normally be inclined to.